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Nigel Slater’s recipes for mango and tomato chutney, and apricots in muscat and brandy

Chutneys and boozy fruits make sumptuous gifts for the Christmas chef

I am squirrelling away a growing collection of good things ready for Christmas. The plum pudding is already in its crackle-glazed china bowl; three or four jars of dark, brandy-spiked mincemeat and some pickled pears await the big day in the kitchen cupboard. Add to that this week’s large jars of dried apricots, plump and full of sweet wine and the row of tubby pots of chutney, thick with sweet fruit and spices, and I’m already starting to relax.

There is much to do in the kitchen over the coming weeks. A few delectable bits and pieces tucked away will be invaluable over Christmas and New Year. Chutneys to go with a pork pie or a plate of smoked salmon. Damson jam to go with Boxing Day ricotta cakes, hot from the frying pan, and a jar of mustard and honey dressing to ooze with the gravadlax I intend to make. Tiny things, but store cupboard treasures (a cook’s little lifesavers) for those of us responsible for the Christmas feast.

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